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Guides — Explainer

Solar Hot Water Booster: Gas vs Electric

Which booster for your solar hot water, gas or electric? Compare running cost, existing-supply fit and cloudy-day performance for Perth homes.

· 4 min read

Solar hot water tank with a gas booster unit beside a Perth home

Why boosting exists

Solar hot water depends on the sun, and the sun does not run to your shower schedule. Cloudy days happen. Winter days are short. Sometimes you have guests and use twice the usual hot water in an evening.

The booster covers those gaps. It is a gas burner or an electric element that heats the tank when solar input alone has not brought it to temperature. Every solar hot water system has one, and it is not an optional extra — see how solar hot water works in Perth for where it sits in the system.

The question is which type, and how it is configured.

Electric booster element access panel on a solar hot water tank

Gas versus electric boosting

Gas boosterElectric booster
RequiresMains natural gas or LPGStandard electrical supply
Running costLower on mains natural gasHigher on peak, competitive on off-peak
SpeedFast recoverySlower recovery
Off-peak optionNoYes
Install complexityHigher, licensed gas fittingLower
Blackout behaviourSome units need power for controlsDoes not operate
Typical setupIn-line unit or tank-mounted burnerElement inside the tank

Gas boosting is generally the cheaper option to run where you have mains natural gas, and it recovers the tank quickly. It is usually configured either as an in-line continuous flow unit that fires only when solar-heated water arrives below the target temperature, or as a burner integrated into the tank.

The in-line arrangement is elegant: water leaves the solar tank, passes the gas unit, and if it is already hot enough the gas unit does nothing at all. If it is short, the unit lifts it the remaining distance. You only pay for the shortfall.

Electric boosting is simply an element inside the solar storage tank, similar to a conventional electric system. It is cheaper and simpler to install, requires no gas supply, and works anywhere.

Its main advantage is the off-peak option. On an off-peak circuit the booster fires overnight at the cheaper rate, so the tank starts the day at temperature.

The off-peak trap

There is a catch with off-peak electric boosting that deserves attention, because it undermines the whole point of the system if handled poorly.

If the booster fires at 1am and heats the tank to full temperature, then the sun comes up on a clear Perth day, there is nothing left for the solar collectors to contribute. The tank is already hot. You have effectively paid for electric hot water and let the collectors sit idle.

Good practice is a partial off-peak boost that lifts the tank enough to cover the morning but leaves headroom for solar gain during the day, or timing the boost for late afternoon rather than overnight so the day’s solar contribution is captured first.

This is a commissioning and configuration matter rather than an equipment one, and it is the single most common reason people tell us their solar system does not seem to save them anything.

Which should you choose?

You have mains natural gas. Gas boosting is usually the better answer. Lower running cost, fast recovery, and an in-line configuration means you only pay for the top-up you actually need.

You have no mains gas. Electric boosting, configured thoughtfully. Consider whether an off-peak circuit is available and worth the timing compromise.

You have rooftop PV. Electric boosting becomes more attractive, because you can time the booster to run during your generation window and use your own electricity rather than purchased power. That is a genuinely strong combination.

You are on LPG. Gas boosting still works but the running-cost advantage narrows considerably, since LPG costs more per unit of energy. Worth comparing against electric before deciding.

Checking your existing booster

If you already have solar and suspect the booster is doing too much of the work, a few things are worth checking:

  • What time does it fire, and can that be adjusted?
  • Is the tank thermostat set higher than necessary, forcing the booster on?
  • Is the solar circulation pump or controller working, on a split system? A dead pump means no solar contribution at all and a booster carrying the entire load.
  • Are the collectors shaded by trees that have grown since installation?

We service and repair solar systems across the Perth metro regardless of who installed them. See our solar hot water page for what we cover, or our gas hot water page if you are considering adding a gas booster to an existing solar setup.

FAQ

Common questions

Do I need a booster for solar hot water?

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Yes, every solar system has one. It covers cloudy stretches, short winter days and periods of unusually high demand. Without it you would occasionally have no hot water, which is not an acceptable outcome for a household system.

Is a gas or electric booster cheaper to run?

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Gas is generally cheaper where you already have mains natural gas. Electric suits homes without gas, and can be set to run on an off-peak tariff which narrows the gap considerably.

Can I boost with off-peak electricity?

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Yes. An electric booster on an off-peak circuit fires overnight at the cheaper rate. The trade-off is that it heats before the sun gets a chance the following day, so the timing needs setting carefully to avoid wasting solar potential.

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